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Elgin National Watch Co. was in operation from 1864-1968 and was an American pocket watch manufacturer. Manufacturing of Elgin watches took place at their facility in Elgin, Illinois.
At first glance, this could easily be mistaken for an early WWI trench watch. The porcelain-enamel dial has the stark, functional aesthetic that would become closely associated with military wristwatches during the First World War: a bright white surface, bold high-contrast black numerals for immediate legibility, and an equally bold ELGIN signature in block lettering. Yet this example predates the war by nearly two decades. Designs like this already existed on American pocket watches at the turn of the century, before their highly legible layouts were later popularized on the wrist through the trench watches of WWI. Even the handset reinforces that later military aesthetic. The unusual spade-and-whip pairing is rarely seen on this movement and feels far more reminiscent of the practical, purpose-built watches worn during WWI than the more ornate designs we typically encounter on turn-of-the-century pocket watches. Both hands were individually mirror polished to remove more than a century of oxidation and corrosion, then carefully heat blued over an alcohol lamp to produce a deep, iridescent blue. Against the stark white enamel dial, the restored hands provide exceptional contrast while preserving a finishing technique characteristic of the era. Behind the dial is an equally significant movement. Completed in 1898 in Elgin, Illinois, this piece is powered by Elgin’s Grade 133, a 15-jewel movement produced for only a brief period between 1896 and 1899. It features an exposed mainspring barrel and dramatic damaskeening that creates remarkable depth and movement across the plates. Every component was carefully restored by hand. Screws and steel hardware were thermally blued over an open flame, a traditional technique that improves corrosion resistance while producing a vibrant, iridescent finish (read more here). Each jewel setting, gear train component, balance, and balance weight was individually polished to restore its original warm golden brilliance. The result is a striking 1898 timepiece whose bold, highly legible design predates WWI, yet unmistakably foreshadows the military wristwatches that would define the trench-watch era nearly two decades later.
The movement is set in a our 40 mm conversion case crafted from surgical-grade 316L stainless steel. This size offers a balanced fit on the wrist, making it one of the most versatile proportions available in any conversion. The case is built with crown and caseback gaskets, tested to 50 meters of water resistance, though removal before swimming or showering is recommended. Fully serviced and regulated, this watch is ready for years of reliable wear and appreciation.
Watch Performance
Accuracy: +/- 10 seconds per day
Amplitude: 275 degrees
Beat Error: 1.5 ms
Frequency: 18,000 (5 beats per second)
Power Reserve: 24-30 hours
Complication: Sub second hand
Watch Specifications
Manufacture: Elgin
Location: Elgin, Illinois
Year Manufactured: 1898
Dial Material: Porcelain-enamel (excellent)
Jewels: 15 jewels
Case Diameter: 40 mm
Front Crystal: Domed sapphire
Back Crystal: Flat sapphire
Case Material: 316L stainless
Lug width: 20 mm
Lug to Lug: 48 mm
Height: 13 mm
Serial Number: 7433968
Water Resistance: 50 meters
Warranty: Full 1-Year Warranty
All Frett & Co. Clockworks watches come with a full 1-year warranty unless otherwise stated.