40 mm Elgin Grade 133 from 1896 – Bird and Banner Dial

Elgin National Watch Co. was in operation from 1864-1968 and was an American pocket watch manufacturer. Manufacturing of Elgin watches took place at their facility in Elgin, Illinois.

The porcelain-enamel dial is the undeniable highlight here — featuring Roman numerals and an exceptionally rare bird-and-banner signature, where the Elgin name is carried in the beak of a bird in flight. It’s a design we’ve never encountered before, giving this dial a distinctive character and clean, balanced layout. The outer minute track is marked boldly at five-minute intervals, a subtle but thoughtful detail that ties the face together with excellent proportions. This 1896 Elgin marks the very first year — and the very first run — of Grade 133 production. Elgin produced only 30 runs of the 133 between 1896 and 1899, and this example comes from run one of thirty, making it a standout piece for collectors. The grade is known for its distinctive mainspring barrel, decorated with an intricate geometric motif unique to early Elgin craftsmanship. Later versions of the grade featured a refined barrel design, showcasing another facet of Elgin’s evolving artistry. Every movement component was carefully refinished by hand. Screws and hardware were treated with precise, hand-applied thermal bluing — a traditional watchmaking technique that enhances corrosion resistance, contrast, and overall visual appeal (read more here). The jewel settings, gear train, balance, and balance weights were individually hand-polished to restore their original golden sheen, while the hands retain their original heat-blued finish. Taken together — the first year of production, the first of only thirty runs, the intricate barrel decoration, and the uniquely signed bird-and-banner dial — this Elgin Grade 133 is both historically significant and visually extraordinary.

Housed in our expertly engineered 40 mm conversion case, this timepiece is designed to highlight the elegance of its vintage dial while offering one of the most wearable conversion cases available. Crafted from surgical-grade 316L stainless steel, the case features both caseback and crown gaskets for enhanced durability and water resistance up to 50 meters (though we recommend removing the watch before water activities). Every piece is fully serviced, meticulously tested, and prepared to accompany you on your next adventure.

Watch Performance

• Accuracy: +/- 10 seconds per day

• Amplitude: 275 degrees

• Beat Error: 1.5 ms

• Frequency: 18,000 (5 beats per second)

• Power Reserve: 24-30 hours

• Complication: Sub second hand

Watch Specifications

• Manufacture: Elgin

• Location: Elgin, Illinois

• Year Manufactured: 1896

• Dial Material: Porcelain-enamel

• Jewels: 15 jewels

• Case Diameter: 40 mm

• Front Crystal: Domed sapphire

• Back Crystal: Flat sapphire

• Case Material: 316L stainless

• Lug width: 20 mm

• Lug to Lug: 48 mm

• Height: 13 mm

• Original Case Included: No

• Serial Number: 6041570

• Water Resistance: 50 meters

• Warranty: Full 1-Year Warranty

All Frett & Co. Clockworks watches come with a full 1-year warranty unless otherwise stated.