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American Waltham Watch Co. was in operation from 1852-1957 and was an American pocket watch manufacturer. Manufacturing of Waltham watches took place at their facility in Waltham, Massachusetts.
Among the finest fancy dials we have ever encountered, this Waltham timepiece was manufactured in Waltham, Massachusetts in 1891 and produced as a private label for a jeweler in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, a detail engraved directly on the movement. The original fancy dial is exceptional. What immediately draws the eye is the intricate gold decoration at the center, a motif echoed again in the sub-seconds register. Elegant numerals frame the dial within a soft blue outer layer, while the minute track features red ruby markers every five minutes and gold accents at each minute. Original Louis XIV hands complete the composition and add balance and elegance. The dial shows a small hairline crack at 3 o’clock, but is otherwise remarkably preserved. Powering the watch is Waltham’s Grade H, a movement produced exclusively in the late 1800s between 1891 and 1894. Approximately 20,000 examples of this grade were made, and only a small fraction were produced as private label pieces like this one. The movement has been fully restored, with the plates, jewel settings, balance, and balance weights individually hand polished to restore their original golden tone. Screws and hardware were blued by hand using traditional open-flame thermal coloring, a historic watchmaking technique that adds visual contrast while improving corrosion resistance (read more here). Taken together, this is a rare private-label Waltham from 1891, made for a Milwaukee jeweler and fitted with a truly standout fancy dial. Examples of this quality and originality do not surface often, and it is unlikely another quite like this will come up again.
The timepiece is housed in our 40 mm surgical-grade 316L stainless steel conversion case—one of the most balanced and wearable sizes for any American conversion. The case features both crown and caseback gaskets, offering water resistance up to 50 meters, though it is best to remove the watch before swimming or submerging it in water. Fully serviced and tested, the piece is ready for years of reliable performance and everyday wear.
Watch Performance
Accuracy: +/- 10 seconds per day
Amplitude: 275 degrees
Beat Error: 1.5 ms
Frequency: 18,000 (5 beats per second)
Power Reserve: 24-30 hours
Complication: Sub second hand
Watch Specifications
Manufacture: Waltham
Location: Waltham, Massachusetts
Year Manufactured: 1891
Dial Material: Porcelain-enamel (excellent)
Jewels: 11 jewels
Case Diameter: 40 mm
Front Crystal: Domed sapphire
Back Crystal: Flat sapphire
Case Material: 316L stainless
Lug width: 20 mm
Lug to Lug: 48 mm
Height: 13 mm
Original Case Included: No
Serial Number: 5505973
Water Resistance: 50 meters
Warranty: Full 1-Year Warranty
All Frett & Co. Clockworks watches come with a full 1-year warranty unless otherwise stated.