Illinois The Master from 1922 with an Original Tapestry Dial

Illinois Watch Co. was in operation from 1869-1948 and produced some of the most renowned railroad-grade movements ever manufactured. Watches were produced in their factory in Springfield, Illinois.

Completed in Springfield, Illinois, in 1922, this Illinois timepiece stands out immediately for its original tapestry dial. Although tapestry dials would later become popular among Swiss watchmakers during the latter half of the twentieth century, American manufacturers such as Illinois were producing these intricate designs decades earlier. The silver dial features finely textured vertical stripes that catch the light from different angles, creating shifting patterns and a remarkable sense of depth. Bold Arabic numerals in the classic American railroad style provide exceptional clarity and legibility, complemented by a railroad-style minute track with prominent indices at five-minute intervals. The combination of intricate texture and purposeful railroad styling creates a distinctive design that feels remarkably American. The original heat-blued hands complete the dial, providing striking contrast against the silver finish.

Powering this timepiece is Illinois's The Master, a 17-jewel movement produced in Springfield, Illinois, between 1913 and 1926, with only a small number of examples bearing the Master designation. This example retains its original circular damaskeening, with intricate patterns that catch and reflect light as it moves across the plates. Every component was carefully restored by hand in our Little Rock, Arkansas, workshop. Screws and steel hardware were individually thermally blued through slow, controlled heating over an alcohol lamp, a traditional watchmaking technique that enhances corrosion resistance while adding striking visual contrast (read more here). The jewel settings, gear train, balance, and balance weights were individually hand-polished to restore their original golden brilliance. The contrast between the polished golden components, richly blued steel hardware, and nickel-finished plates highlights the craftsmanship of early American watchmaking. The result is a carefully preserved and restored example of Illinois watchmaking, combining an exceptionally distinctive original dial with the mechanical artistry of a century-old American movement.

The timepiece is cased in our 316L stainless steel conversion case, designed with adjustable lugs for easy winding and setting, ensuring a comfortable fit across various wrist sizes. The case includes front, back, and crown gaskets, providing water resistance up to 50 meters, though it is recommended to remove the watch before engaging in water activities. The timepiece comes fully serviced and ready for your future adventures.

Watch Performance

• Accuracy: +/- 10 seconds per day

• Amplitude: 275 degrees

• Beat Error: 1.5 ms

• Frequency: 18,000 (5 beats per second)

• Power Reserve: 24-30 hours

• Complication: Sub second hand

Watch Specifications

• Manufacture: Illinois

• Location: Springfield, Illinois

• Year Manufactured: 1922

• Dial Material: Metal

• Jewels: 17 jewels

• Case Diameter: 44 mm

• Front Crystal: Domed AR coated sapphire

• Back Crystal: Flat AR coated sapphire

• Case Material: 316L stainless

• Lug width: 22 mm

• Lug to Lug: 47 mm (52 mm with crown)

• Height: 13 mm

• Serial Number: 4163182

• Water Resistance: 50 meters

• Warranty: Full 1-Year Warranty

All Frett & Co. Clockworks watches come with a full 1-year warranty unless otherwise stated.